Today there are primarily two basic means used in constructing an outdoor pond — flexible EPDM or PVC liners or rigid preformed shells. The flexible liner gives you greater design creativity, while the rigid shell is sturdier. Make your choice and let’s get started.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION

This is your most important decision. There are three key factors to consider — sunlight (you want some sun and some shade), leaf-shedding or pollen-emitting trees (you want as few as possible) and drainage or runoff (you want to stay away from low-lying areas). Using these guidelines, location selection becomes a decision based on your property and what you are looking to achieve — visually and aurally. Because, besides being wonderful to look at, the addition of a stream, waterfall or fountainhead gives the added dimension of sound. Take your time and plan carefully — repositioning a pond is a major undertaking!

FLEXIBLE LINER POND CONSTRUCTION

First thing is to determine the size and shape of your pond. Try drawing pleasing shapes on paper before beginning. This will give you a bird’s eye view and will help giving you a direction. Rectangular shapes are formal, free-flowing are more casual and natural.

When designing your shape, incorporate an edge deep and wide enough to accommodate edging material. The sides should be barely sloped.

Depth is determined by your location and use. If you plan to have fish and you live in an area where there is winter freezing, you should have a portion of the pond at least 24-30" deep, otherwise an average depth of 24" is enough. See Note 1, page 10 for city code caution. Next, get a long garden hose, string or rope and layout the shape on the ground. Bigger is better because a pond seems to diminish in size when viewed from eye level. When you are satisfied with the location, size and shape, you are ready to begin the actual construction. Take your time, make this a fun, family project.

Just follow these easy steps:

1. Begin excavating the soil, digging from the center outward. Put the soil on a plastic tarp to prevent damage to the outlying area. Do not dispose of the sod or dirt until you have finished. You may need the soil for backfilling or raising the level (See step 2, below). You may need the sod to fill sandy sections. Dig the hole, barely sloping the sides and forming the shelf area. Extend an edge about 12" wide outside the perimeter as a base for your rock edging

2. Check the ground level (See Drawing B). Place a number of stakes around the perimeter. Select the "Key Stake", the stake that appears to be the average ground level. Mark that level with a piece of tape or marker pen. Using a straight 2x4 and a carpenter’s level, go from the Key Stake to Stake #1 and mark it when the 2x4 is level. Similarly, continue around the perimeter from stake to stake marking the level spot. If possible, check the measurements by stretching the 2x4 across
the width or length. Run a string around the pond at the level mark and use this as your guide for raising the ground level. If you need to raise areas, build up fill at least 4-6" above level to allow settling

Drawing B

3. After the hole has been dug, remove any stones, rocks or tree roots, and smooth the surfaces. To protect the liner from puncture holes, use about 1" of sand, indoor/outdoor carpeting, carpet padding or 2-3 layers of damp newspapers.

4. Drape the liner in the hole. It should extend at least 12-18" outside the top edge. Place rocks or other heavy objects temporarily around the outside to hold the liner in place. Some curves or corners will create excess material. Fold the liner on itself to take up the material, the pressure of the water will keep it in place.

5. Begin filling with water. Check to be sure everything stays in place and the liner doesn’t get pulled away from the edging area. By running the liner under the edging and extending it you can accomodate varying water depths. Stop filling when the water is about 1-2" below ground level.

6. Cover the excess liner material with decorative stone or other material. Apply your edging. This can be free-form rocks, slate, brick, or any other material that suits your design. Overhang the water with edging by at least 2" to hide the liner.

7. Before adding plants or fish, let the water settle for two weeks (for treated city water) or use a pond starter chemical. This is not necessary with natural well water. Ask your pond dealer for suggestions.
8. Ponds normally require some sort of aeration and filtration to promote healthy plant and fish life. Supreme Pondmaster products include a complete selection of energy-efficient pumps, filter systems, fountainheads, and decorative waterworks. Ask your dealer to show them to you.
Note 1: You may want to check the local building code for the depth which is considered a pool. You will need to make the depth of your pond less than the depth the building code considers a pool.

For example, if the building code states a water cavity 30" or more is considered a pool, then your pond will need to be less than 30" deep at the deepest end.